New Ski Lake
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Still digging, but what is the best way to set buoys?
I've seen individual anchors secured in a concrete mold, but has anyone done anything different? Would PVC pipe with anchor points secured in concrete be a good idea? Thanks for the advice!
Not Dr Jim
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http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/comment/142141 Above link to a discussion on auto adjusting buoys. Adjust up and down, not wide to narrow
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Dr Jim was a visionary. Rather than adjust line length you adjust course width. It never made the rule book though.
Not Dr J
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No doubt a visionary!
Back on topic though. What do you guys recommend?
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18 inch square blocks filled with concrete. you can put a bent piece of rebar with the bend sticking out of the concrete in them. Also put 2 pieces of pvc that go all the way through the concrete (diagonal corners). These can be used to stake the blocks in place if you have a slippery lake bottom. The rebar lasts about 20 years. After the rebar rusts through, you can run rope through the pvc points if you are still skiing!
Not Dr Jim
Reply with quote #6
Originally Posted by
mike 18 inch square blocks filled with concrete. you can put a bent piece of rebar with the bend sticking out of the concrete in them. Also put 2 pieces of pvc that go all the way through the concrete (diagonal corners). These can be used to stake the blocks in place if you have a slippery lake bottom. The rebar lasts about 20 years. After the rebar rusts through, you can run rope through the pvc points if you are still skiing!
Thanks Mike! Only problem I’m seeing having in the future is the rebar rusting. Any possible solutions to that? I’m in my 20s, so I’ve got a few years of skiing to do if this lake ever gets built!
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yes, a little over 20 years is what I got out of my rebar...and then you have to run a rope through the PVC stake holes that you have in the concrete.
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What system are they using at Okeeheelee ,Greater Miami ski club ?
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Anchor in a loop of rope instead of the rebar if youre concerned with rust.
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Take 16 inch concrete block fill with concrete use a 10 inch ss eyelet with washers on it in the block when you pour the concrete, last forever, much easier to find than screw anchors. If you wish ss screw anchors 48 inches long can be bought from a company in alexander city, al they will work or will hold a ski jump in place, don't waste your time on galvanized steel it will rust. If your worried about the block moving put pvc in diagonal corners and run ss pipe into the ground they will not move.
Registered: 1441106404 Posts: 9
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Not Dr. Jim
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Thank you guys very much for the info. This lake should introduce a lot of new skiers to our sport, so your input is very much appreciated. I'll post some pictures once everything is lined up.
Registered: 1441165466 Posts: 12
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I agree with the big blocks filled w concrete and pvc in the corners to hammer rebar and hold it in place. I would also add stainless steel rings/ I bolt into the block. Add a bend or large washer and nut on the end so that it will not pull out of the concrete. Make sure the SS ring in big enough to handle easily in the dark of the bottom of a lake if you have to replace the rope. You can get a "Fastener" machine shop to make the I-bolts any size and diameter you wish.
Go ahead and spend the money, because it is a pain to go back when you cut corners to save money for the here and now. I have rebar in my blocks for approx 20 years and it is still good. You can use SS spikes instead of rebar, but costly. But are the blocks really going to move once set and the rebar goes away sitting in the mud? Also, a tip, when you place the PVC and pour concrete, put tape over ends of PVC to keep the concrete out. I surveyed my lake and placed the course when it was dry. It's easy to have a big trailer with the blocks to place at each spot as you pull the trailer. Screw anchors can work good, but if you have rocky ground, it will be difficult to place the anchor in the perfect place